New Home

On Friday I moved in with a new family - the Pucci's! I really love them and things are going very well here at their house. On Saturday we went up to their mountain home where it was something like 30 degrees cooler and absolutely wonderful! I got to meet all of the extended family and taste some true Italian family cooking, which is to die for, by the way. Gisella, the mother who I love, and I walked up to the highest peak on one of the mountains where you can see everything! Its also the place where many people take off in hot air balloons and so forth and while we were up there we saw a hang glider, which was neat. I went to Mass on Sunday and got to experience not only Catholic church but also Italian Catholic church, of which I only understood a little bit.
The first night I was there there was a car race on the windy roads of the mountain. I couldnt believe it because its scary enough just driving it at a slow speed in a normal car, but to race is absolutely insane. Anyhow, every year they bring out the Paramedics and people camp out for two nights to watch the event...sometimes people drive over the edge but they say its rare, so they must be professionals. Lots of people were in the community that Sunday and theres a market where everything is sold and also a big park so it felt like a huge family picnic. I really love it there and I think we are going back next Friday.
I have so many things to write but my blogs will be short this month because I have limited time on the internet. Let me just say that staying with an Italian family is so much better than trying to simulate the Italian experience elsewhere. I really love everything that we are doing here and I am already feeling very much a part of the family.
Oh! Someone told me I looked like an American yesterday...imagine that! haha! What do Americans look like, anyway?

Mosquitos and Other Such Nonsense

I have never in my life experienced a mosquito problem like the one in Italy...specifically my living room in Lucca. There is no air conditioning, so people leave their windows open and even with screens (which have very small holes) there seems to be room for those little insects of evil to get through. You just dont have a choice about it so the appropriate measures are taken to keep them away: "Vape" which is the equivalent of "OFF" in the States. It comes in a spray and also in a dish that you set in your room and heat, but nothing works. Everyday I am at least bitten about eight times before noon. I have also developed a keen sense for when a mosquito is about to strike and Ive become a very apt hunter. Lizards are also everywhere...geckos especially. One time, I found one near the ceiling in the "casseta" (little house) but I couldnt get it down, so I hope it got out on its own.... These creatures have really become some of my only company over the past few days. Theres a black cat that lives in the garden and these bugs and such. Mark and Zeek made it back to the States safely and in the mean time Ive been biding my time until I go to the Pucci home for a month. I actually leave tomorrow at 3 PM. It seems like these past two months have been a lifetime. I love Italy but it is so much slower than the pace of my normal life. Of course, I dont think that will last for long with school coming up and chaotic Roma, but its still very bizarre to even know what this much free time feels like.
I was also thinking about how my dad is coming here to Lucca in one month and, after a few attempts at narrowing down the things I want to show him, I realized that Ive experienced so much since I got here. I managed to find places where Im actually recognized as a "regular" and I have favorite spots. There are so many things that I didnt think were making an impact on me that actually have and Ill miss my small nook in Lucca. I think at the end of next month there will be a certain pride in getting to show him around "my first Italian city" and in actually knowing about it in my own rite. Arrivederci!

Camomille in the Rain

Life is ironic. Today I set out to go to the beach for the first time. Unsure of my way, which bus to take, and whether or not I would end up in the right place, I bought a ticket for the trip to Camaiore because I know there is a place called Lido di Camaiore (which Ive been to before), literally meaning "beach of Camaiore." It seemed like a good bet. Camaiore, the town, is on the other side of the mountain from Lucca so we went through some winding roads and beautiful countryside. There are trees and ivy everywhere; I even saw a whole 2 acre field full of sunflowers from up high. When you drive through the country, people will sometimes be in their gardens and stop to see you go by or the bus driver will recognize a friend in a roadside cafè and give him a wave. Well, I arrive in Camaiore, which seems to be much more overcast than usual, and as I step out of the bus, a huge clap of thunder and bright bolt of lightning flash right in my view. Within two minutes, it was pouring rain...so much for the beach! I also found that Camaiore is different from Lido di Camaiore and theres an additional bus to take from Camaiore to the shoreline. Now, I know for the future. I wandered in the rain down the main road until I got to an inviting pizzeria where I could read and eat lunch, but they were closed, so I continued on. I got to a little cafe on the side of the road with covered tables outside and I decided to stop for some camomille tea. I enjoyed the pitter patter of rain above me and people walking by with umbrellas. There were puppies prancing in the rain with their owners calling after them and children jumping in the cobblestone puddles. The beach will always be there but days like this one, and the little surprise adventures I found, cannot be planned. I ended up walking to the bus stop in the rain and enjoyed the ride home as the skies cleared up above.

Its No Optical Illusion...

Thats right, the Tower really leans. Today I made a short 30 minute bus ride voyage to Pisa, the heart of malfunctional architecture in Italy. haha. The temperature was so high today that it has refreshed my belief in Global Warming...and I havent even see Al Gore's movie yet! Despite that, it was actually really nice to go there. I had heard from so many people that Pisa was a waste of time because its really an industrial city built completely around this tourism for the Baptistry, Duomo, Tower and some museums. That may be true, but the area where all of these are located is really beautiful. The lawn is manicured very nicely and the grass, which covers everything, is very lush and green. There are children running in it and people laying on blankets eating sack lunches there, too. The general atmosphere is chaotic on the "selling" end where lots of stands are set up and people are trying to sell you knock offs, but it is tranquil on another end where you are actually observing the monuments.
My favorite was the Duomo but if it werent so hot, I would have gone to the top of the Tower and I think I would have liked that best. The Baptistry is very interesting from the outside but I was less impressed with its interior. I got to climb up to the top of that one and look down the center, which was a little scary since I am terrified of heights, but also really neat. On the way up the stairs there are look out points where a nice breeze comes through and you can see out to the people on the grass or the other monuments. The Duomo is very intricate and expansive. There is a fresco on the main dome that I really love. It is of Jesus and he has a gold inlaid robe and the paint is very fresh looking. Its very beautiful. There are other paintings all over the sides of the main entry and on either of the two "wings" are small altars with other frescos. The columns remind me of many of the roads in Italy, which are lined with perfect trees and seem to go on forever. You could get lost in the Duomo examining all of the many things there are to see. The tower is interesting because if you are only a few feet away, it doesnt seem to be leaning. From far away, you can tell that it is very off balance. All along the walkway to the Tower there are children and adults alike posing as if they were pushing the tower over or holding it up, which is a very creative idea but looks very silly since they are actually not touching anything. I took one picture like that but a stranger was taking it and he didnt really get my hands connected with the building, and I didnt want to ask him to do it again. haha!
In the end it was a great trip - I saw most everything I wanted to see, ate some good speghetti on the lawn and drank the hugest water bottle Ive ever seen!

When You Think About It

When I think about it I see pictures dancing in my mind. I see the beach in Paleochora, Greece with black stones and my friends skipping rocks in the clear water while I listen to Toby Lightman on my iPod. I see the lake where I would kayak out with my best friend to talk about the day and watch the children stare in awe at turtles and ducks on the shore. When I think about it I see the young girls who suckled knowledge of life from every place they could, and who gave me hugs and asked me for help when they liked a boy or were mad at a girl. I see my sister in her school plays boldly confronting the audience. I see Valentines Day and cookies, made with mom, with sprinkles on top and lots of icing. When I think about it, I see a "pizza garden" out back that I planted with dad and I see myself doing soccer drills with him in the long yard. When I think about it, I see my kitties crawling longingly into my lap, hoping that Ill pet them and hold them until they sleep. When I think about it, I can see the Trail of Lights, and the twinkling lights spinning under the huge Christmas tree. I see my cousin Colin chasing my cousin Mary Nell and me after we stole his hat. When I think about it, I can see the most memorable parts of my past and, even though moving away and doing something new is hard, even though I take tons of pictures to remind myself, I know deep down that Italy wont leave me and that when I think about it later on, I will see the Lucca walls and the San Michele square. Ill see the small pastery shops and the people on their bicycles. When I think about it...

"I Carry Your Heart"

I was watching a movie last night and in it this poem was recited and I felt like the words were singing. They are so beautiful and so simple; genuine and thoughtful and mysterious. I wanted to share the words with you:

"I Carry Your Heart" by E.E. Cummings

I carry your heart with me; I carry it in my heart
I am never without it.
Anywhere I go you go, my dear;
And whatever is done by only me is your doing, my darling
I fear no fate, for you are my fate, my sweet
I want no world, for beautiful you are my world, my true
And it's you are whatever a moon has always meant
And whatever a sun will always sing is you

Here is the deepest secret nobody knows
Here is the root of the root and the bud of the bud
And the sky of the sky of a tree called life;
Which grows higher than soul can hope or mind can hide
And this is the wonder that's keeping the stars apart

I carry your heart; I carry it in my heart.

Lives of the Rich and Famous

Yesterday, I was lucky to make the acquaintence of two of Mark and Zeek's friends. We drove from Lucca through Monsegrati to the small town of Camaiore (just near the beach) and then up the winding mountain paths to their beautiful home. The man is a screen writer in Hollywood and has produced dialogues for many well known sitcoms (I believe he has won an Emmy). His wife is a sculptress who has a sculpture garden in the States and a studio in Camaiore. For six months of the year they live in Italy and for the other six, they live in Hollywood. What a juxtaposition I found that to be, but they seem to pull it off nicely by having a strong set of friends in both places and lovely homes in each, as well.
There is a long and steep driveway up to their Italy home. Upon entering there are grape vines over a terrace which open up to a pool area and patio. It is absolutely picturesque and I would love to have a place like that, should I ever own a place in Italy. I found them to be wonderful company - very kind people who are never short of enthralling life experiences and stories to share. In addition, they are very politically/socially minded and I found their discussion of current topics interesting. One question, which is easy to dismiss but interesting nonetheless, that Nancy raised was "is relgion crazy?" She gave this analogy: if you see a man on the subway wearing a tin foil hat who believed aliens were talking to him, most of you will say that he is insane. She then asked, if you saw a man on the subway in a red hat who said that God was talking to him, what would you think? Both forces (aliens and God) are equally invisible and both men appear to be the same. Is faith crazy? What is crazy? I guess these are the questions you ask yourself in transit between California and Italy...*sigh*

Firenze and Gypsies

Yesterday I made my way to Firenze (commonly known as Florence to Americans). When I arrived in the bus station, I was promptly greeted by a man shooing two gypsy girls out of the building. In Lucca, gypsies exist but not in the capacity that they do in Firenze or Roma. In Lucca, they live on the bank of the river just on the very outskirts of town and you may occasionally run across one or two in the centro. In Firenze, they are much more common and they spend time especially around the bus and train stations, where I was. There is no danger with gypsies, except that of mysteriously having your stuff disappear when you are around them (a magical quality that they seem to possess, really). Seeing the two girls forced to leave the bus station where they were begging brought back to mind the fact that I have not yet told you anything about them or their lifestyle. I myself know very little, but I will try to tell you some about what I do know. First of all, their lifestyle is a choice and it would be seen as a complete disgrace to the clan if they chose otherwise. (In fact, Im told that such a person would be found by whatever means necessary and only God knows what would happen then.) The goal of the clan is to protect its own by whatever means necessary. They live on the outskirts of any given town, typically near the water, in a group in tents or similar compounds. The government knows where they are and rather than disperse them (as you may expect to happen), they turn a blind eye and recognize that it is better to know where the gypsies are than to be unsure. Their homes and lives are very modest ones and everything they have they receive by begging on the street during the day. The children go to school like normal children (though it is, apparantly, seen as more of a daycare situation than a means to an end or an end in itself) and while they are at school, their parents are out working. For work, a gypsy wears a whole different set of clothing which appears more tattered than their normal clothing might. Their entire appearance changes for the street. Gypsies have their own language (which is something like Italian, but not) and their own relgion (which no other known group supports and is something like a mixture of pagan rites and Catholicism). Children are also in the family business, as it were, and when they arent in school they also participate in making money with their parents. I have never been duped by a gypsy but I hear that it is quite easy. One will talk to you while the other picks your pocket or one will slit your bag as you are stopped on a bus. They are professionals at what they do. When Italians see them they are either disgusted or disinterested. If they own a business, they may try to run off the gypsy but I have never seen an Italian give money to one. Mostly, they traffic in tourist areas and target the "prime candidates" whose wallets are not secure and who seem to be more enveloped by their map than their surroundings. So, when in Rome, beware.
In other news, Firenze was a great experience, especially since I did it all on my own and things went well. I was missing my friend Bryan who was really great at navigating in our last trip there, but I did alright and didnt get lost so much as turned around a couple of times. Firenze has a jumble of streets that follow no particular pattern and so, landmarks are the only way to track a path. I saw the Baptistry Doors, which I had seen before but which meant a lot more to me this time after having read about them briefly in "Brunelleschi's Dome." They really are magnificent and took so many years to build. It is amazing how much of the art around us that we take for granted and how much time it took for certain projects to be completed. The difficulty of the dome on the Duomo is actually incredible and took the entire adult life of one man and much of the adult life of another. Its main architect barely saw its completion before dying and one of the architects did not even live to see the lantern on top finished. To think how quickly we see projects rise and fall in cities these days, it is nearly impossible to think of living your whole childhood around a single construction project! Wow!
I made my way back to Lucca after 5 hours of walking, completely exhausted but pleased with my day. I hope to go back again soon for my fourth trip.

Tracy Chapman...in Lucca??

Last night I overcame my fear of going out alone at night and I went to see a concert in the Piazza Napoleono. Yes, Tracy Chapman is an American artist, but I really like her music and, in fact, in Italy, American music is more common than Italian music. No kidding. So, I arrived an hour early and quickly it became a packed house! I was surprised at how many hundreds of people came out for the event, considering that Lucca is relatively small.
I ended up sitting next to a middle-aged couple from Lucca (who happened to know a little bit of English) and a younger couple, probably in their mid-twenties. I began talking with the older couple and found out that the man owns a granite and marble company which contracts work out all over the world! When he asked where I was from and I responded (though I nearly said Canada..."Texas" is a dangerous bargain over here. haha!) he said that he had built a skyscraper in Dallas with his granite! Its such a small world.
The concert went really well and I ended up knowing more of her songs than I thought. What surprised me more than that was the fact that all of the Italians (most of whom do not know English) knew her songs! Its not uncommon for Italians to know the words to many American songs but not have any clue what they mean, and it never fails to bring a smile to my face when I see one of them singing. Tracy played my favorite of her songs "Change" and also others which I really like ("Fast Car", "Revolution", etc.)
The night was a success and I was glad I went out. I felt safe and I realized that, once again, Im capable of more than I gave myself credit for. I hope that my discoveries continue to follow this trend rather than its counterpart, and I have faith that they will.

Peanut Butter and Dr. Pepper

I recently made a shocking discovery. No, it wasnt that Lucca is the toilet paper capital of the world...not even that the true form of mozzerella is NOT stringy and packaged. Its true, Italy does not sell Dr. Pepper or creamy peanut butter. GASP. Upon this recognition, after reconciling with a complete loss of Tex Mex, I immediately began writing friends and family telling them to send me the beloved contraband.
I was lucky in that word of mouth travels and the second school group to Italy brought me a TON of Dr. Pepper. Everyone was contacted and asked to bring a few cans or bottles...one person even brought 12...and I think Im set for at least a couple of weeks. haha! I am still coping with the fact that Italians only eat crunchy peanut butter, and even then, you will only find a small jar of it hidden away (dusty, even) on a shelf at the supermarket. I have plans and dad, if youre reading, JIFF whipped peanut butter when you come, please.

All Alone

This morning Jane and the kids left for their home in the States and now its just Mark, Zeek and me. Its a totally different feeling being "on my own" in Italy than it was before at the Villa with the school trips and even when Jane was there. I am gradually moving towards a state of complete self reliance, but I can feel that shift and being conscious of it is scary, a little bit. Small things are so much harder to do here than in the states and when left to my own devices, I know I am capable, but I am still uncomfortable and timid.
Since I came to live with Jane and Mark Ive met many of their friends and each time, they give me a phone number and tell me to call for a beach day or a trip to their town or even just help if I need it. Italians are so friendly that Im blown away everytime I interact with them. For example, I go to this one internet cafè every other day or so, and owner there knows me. When he sees me walk in, he skips the other customers and goes straight to me. He takes me to a computer, gets it neat looking and then pulls the chair out for me. Its just so kind how they take care of you and how they want you to be happy with their service. Businesses are almost always owned by families here and, frequently, they live above the business itself in an apartment. They oversee everything and they know their customers. They know how to do the work at hand and have often been working on it since they could walk when their parents began teaching them as apprentices.
In other news, I have heard from Gisella (who Im staying with later this summer) and more and more I am looking forward to that time with her. She is working on arranging her work schedule so that she can be home more when I am there and spend time with me. Shes hoping that we can teach eachother everyday in a language class for my Italian and her English...its sort of unfair though because she has a big headstart! haha.
Im trying to take it one day at a time and see where things go. I just finished The Color of Light and liked that book a LOT. I miss Austin a ton and my friends and family but I know Ill be okay. I know that if I can do this year in Italy, I can do anything.

I-TAL-I-A

Last night Italy WON the World Cup!!!!!! I am still shocked myself and I can only conclude that this great onslaught of good fortune for Italy was brought on by yours truly. First, Germany was an upset and then France! My night began with some friends of Jane and Marks named Jim and Stephanie. We went to this little wine bar and watched the first third of the game or so and I ate some gnocci, which is some of the best pasta around and is only made in Italy. When we thought things were getting interesting, we headed to Piazza Napoleono where we watched the rest of it. The game was really exciting - there was never a dull moment and there were so many goal shots attempted that I almost had a heart attack! Our goalie, Buffon, is one of my all-time heroes now. I cant believe the things he caught. Anyway, we watched the game, sticking around through both overtimes and the shootout, when everything went absolutely postal. As soon as the game ended and all of our jumping up and down had ceased, everyone waved thier flags like maniacs and started climbing the light poles to throw their fists in the air from a higher vantage point. There were smoke bombs (completely harmless and relatively small but with a great spreading capacity) released and also some really bright fireworks. The carabinieri (military police) and firefighters were on standby in the square in uniform in case anything got out of hand, but nothing did. As we were walking home, festivities were just entering full swing and we noticed the typical post-game traffic and moped honking. One thing that was new were some small three-wheeled cars used on farms here that look like very tiny trucks loaded to the brim with people so that the wheels were actually compressed so far down I thought they might pop off. Two of them were painted green, red and white for Italy and covered with balloons. It was so funny how people planned and planned for this victory and then, to see it unleashed, was like opening Pandoras box. Beautifully dangerous! The honking and screaming continued all night and while I was able to sleep through it, Jane got up several times to look out at it, she said. I cant believe how lucky I am to be here...especially since Italy hasnt won since something like 1982!
A sad thing that happened in the game that you may have noticed is that one of the French players got a red card and was thrown from the game. It was his last game of his career and so, bittersweet. People in Lucca are saying that one of the Italians said something about his being homosexual and that it was too sore of a spot so he head butted him for it. Ouch! Also, an irony of the Italian victory is that recently (this past year) many of Italys teams were implicated in scandals involving fixed games. Individual players were found out and the most corrupt team was said to be Juventus. Funnily, most of the players on the World Cup team are from Juventus! The World Cup cannot be fixed, so at least we know it didnt carry over into this victory. Anyway, it was a great night and one that I will always remember! I took a bunch of pictures and those will be posted on my Flickr site soon.

World Cup

Last night marked the second World Cup game Ive watched in the town square. I think I must be good luck because Italy has won both times!!
The first game was Sunday and we played the Ukraine (we won 3 to 0). When the game ended, people went absolutely crazy...like, the Drag after the Rose Bowl crazy...like rock concert crazy. It was safe but extremely hilarious to watch. I was there with two of my friends, Bryan and Lindsey, and we observed as motorinos (motor scooters) circled the piazze and waved their flags. People set off sparklers and small fireworks in the center of the square and were chanting "I-tal-i-a" over and over again. It was so exciting! Then, we exited the walls of the town to the surrounding roads and found that they were completely at a standstill. The movement was really slow and people were running all through the streets yelling and hugging each other and getting everyone to chant together. It was like a city-wide pep rally. haha! A water mane was actually broken and people were getting empty trash cans, filling them with water, and dumping them in and on cars! Insane! I even saw two men in their boxer shorts swimming in the fountain.
The second game was last night (Tuesday) against Germany, which Italy was not supposed to win, but did! The game was 0 to 0 and went into overtime, at which point Italy scored! It was madness. We had to drive to the coast afterwards to give a friend a key he needed (something from a previous day trip) and all the way there (45 minutes one way) there were people waving flags and honking and hanging out of their windows like dogs in August. I couldnt believe the widespread joy and energy...all the way past 1 AM when we returned to the Villa. One of my favorite parts of last night was walking down a road that was mostly deserted (no bars or t.v.s around) and this one guy in his bakery seeing the shot and running out wanting to celebrate with someone but not having anyone around. He came out shaking his fists and yelling in his apron, he saw us and then yelled with us! haha. It was great. There is such camraderie here and its so easy to be excited. If you arent following the games, Italy is now in the finals and will play against Portugal for either first or second place. Brazil and Germany will play for 3rd. The Italy game is on July 9th, so dont forget to turn it on and watch with me!